Apr 8, 2014 - my 03 ford f 150 does not have a fuel pump driver module in the usual location above the spare tire? Truck shows - Ford 2001 F150 Styleside. Fuel pump driver module offline? + Reply to Thread. Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last. Jump to page. I got that code that says fuel pump drive module disabled or offline. What does that mean? After i got that code my car wouldnt start. 2001 SVT Mustang Cobra Replies: 2 Last Post:, 07:16 AM.
This problem started back on Nov 3rd. Here's a post I made about it on another forum Nov 3rd, 2010 Having a weird issue with my truck. Went to grab a pizza the other day truck was running just fine. Went into the pizza place, got my pizza came back out and my truck wouldn't start.
I had good battery juice, starter was cranking (no clicking noise) but the engine just wouldn't turn over. So I tried priming the fuel pump a few times, still wouldn't turn over.
So I called my insurance company, and they sent a tow truck out. The tow truck driver beat on the bottom of the fuel tank with a big 4x4 piece of wood but it still wouldn't start. So then he put it on the back of the truck and towed it to Christian Brothers. When he went to unload it, he turned the key to on, but didn't start it, put it in nuetral and rolled it off the back of the truck.
When it was completely off he turned the key and it cranked right up. So we assumed it was the fuel pump. However, since it's been at Christian Brothers their mechanics have been unable to duplicate the issues and it starts just fine. It's got good fuel pressure, battery and alternator are both good. When it was at Christian Brothers from the 3rd - 5th of Nov they went through and couldn't find anything wrong with it, and they went through it with a fine tooth comb and could not get it to duplicate the problem. No diagnostic trouble codes, or anything.
up until Friday night, have not had any further issues with the truck. I drove it from Nashville to Pensacola and back a few weeks ago and have gone several places around Nashville since then with no issues. That all changed when I went to Kroger to grab some tylenol Fri night and came out of Kroger and it wouldn't start again, but after a half an hour of fiddling with it I finally got it to start and got it back home. Haven't gone anywhere else since. Then this morning I go out to my truck to go to church and she won't start. So I called Dad and he brought some tools and voltmeter and some other stuff and we started troubleshooting. He pulled the relays in the fuse box and tested the ECM and Fuel Pump Relay.
He wrapped a wire around one of the connector prongs, and tightened the other one to a bolt on the chassis to ground it. Then he touched the relay to the battery and it starting making the clicking noise which ensures it's working. Dad then ran the continuity test and the tester beeped. He did this on both the ECM relay and Fuel Pump Relay. Both were good. Then he did a continuity check on the fuse box slots for both relays, and they checked good with continuity.
Next we pulled the air intake off and sprayed some gasoline into the throttle body while trying to start it. It sputtered and caught for second then died. Repeated attempts failed and it wouldn't even catch again after that while trying to squirt gasoline in to the throttle body.
Dad then did the same with the fuse box panel under the dash inside the truck. Fuses were all good, and continuity was good on the slots of the fuses he pulled. Then he pulled the trim from the passenger side kick panel, and tested the fuel inertia shutoff switch, that tested good, and had continuity as well.
Pulled the #4 COP and tested for spark, spark was white hot. We couldn't pull all of them because there are some you can't reach, but Dad said it wouldn't start if one was bad and the rest were. So we sat there going back over everything we just did and talking about what symptoms it had. 20 minutes later Dad put the jumper cables on the truck to charge the battery because it was kinda low. 10 minutes later we started the truck and it turned over like everything was perfectly normal. So we got suspicious about the charging system.
Dad tested the battery with his voltmeter it said 16.2v.so we drove it up to O'Reilly's to have them check it, but their battery tester said 14.2 V solid and declared the battery good. So we pulled the cover off the battery and the guy at O'Reilly verified that the battery which was a Duralast 5800 w/ 610 cold cranking amps was sufficient for my truck in the system, it was.
So then we tested the Alternator. It was good too and the diode was good. So now everyone's confused. We shut it off and the guy said we should clean the terminals on the battery cables and the battery posts, so why not right? Cheap stuff first to eliminate possibilities. So spent $7 on a post cleaner and a wire brush gizmo, cleaned them up, and the truck started right up. But i shut it off again let it sit for a few minutes just to test it and then it did the same thing where it was cranking but not starting.
So still the initial problem remains in the fact that it gets a wild hair at random and doesn't want to start. Dad seems to think it's a fuel issue somewhere. But the Fuel pump is working and priming and fuel pressure is good. Spark is good, charging system is good. Anyone else have any ideas?
What about the crankshaft sensor? Or the camshaft sensor?
Would either of these 2 keep the trucking from starting? 2001 F-150 Supercrew 4.6L SOHC 141,2xx miles Automatic 2WD No check engine lights, no warning indicators, gauges are all reading normal, has a full tank of gas in it. You said when they had it they couldnt duplicate the problem, so of coarse the fuel pressure was correct then PS: they suck over there.you should have brought it to us in brentwood.
I had it towed to them the day it started all of this. Well I won't bad mouth them because they were pretty honest, said they couldn't get it to do what it was doing to me, and he didn't charge me a dime for the several hours of diagnosing they did on it, and that's not cheap either, because if it had been a dealership I'd have had a bill for $400 or $500 and my truck wouldn't have been fixed. Will do Will, thanks! Let you know what happens tomorrow. The Camshaft and Crankshaft Sensors are $17 and $15 apiece respectively.but im curious, if one of those was bad or faulty, wouldn't I be throwing a code?
May want to check. Some vehicles can crank (just won't run too well and typically take longer to crank) without one of the above working. I'm confused.you say it was cranking because it wasn't clicking.but the engine wouldn't turn over. If it's not clicking and the starter is hitting, it should be turning the engine over. That's just the way it works. Is it turning over and not cranking, or is it not turning over?
May want to check. Some vehicles can crank (just won't run too well and typically take longer to crank) without one of the above working. I'm confused.you say it was cranking because it wasn't clicking.but the engine wouldn't turn over. If it's not clicking and the starter is hitting, it should be turning the engine over.
That's just the way it works. Is it turning over and not cranking, or is it not turning over? -Will um, im confused now lol.
I turn the key and everything goes as it should and sounds healthy but the engine won't run. But the starter sounds good and is engaging and disengaging properly. If that makes any sense.